Happy Halloween!

I finally have furniture! I had 2 bookshelves and a small table made from bamboo, and a Peace Corps car was finally able to bring them and the 2 chairs I’d bought down to Madoubougou. There isn’t anyplace to get these things close to my village, and trying to get them here any other way would’ve been a nightmare. The best part was that 3 PCVs from Sikasso City were able to ride along and visit me. They weren’t able to stay long, but it was a nice surprise. The car had come from Bamako originally, so it was also carrying my mail that’d been sent to my old address. As one of the PCVs said, it was like I’d won a sweepstakes or something. Only without the balloons and TV cameras- maybe next time. As with any time an unfamiliar vehicle rolls into town, all the neighbor kids gathered around to see what was going on- this time they were starring at all the newcomers instead of me.

I’ve kinda got my host family figured out now. It’s a big compound with a lot of people, and it’s not entirely appropriate to sit down and index out a family, but here’s what I’ve figured out so far. The part of the family I’m around the most (i.e. eat dinner with every night and talk to everyday) is fairly simple. Lamine is about 30 years old. He has 2 wives, but one is living with her mom in another village about 20km away and I haven’t met her yet. I’m not quite sure why she’s there, but I know that she’s coming back in about a month. Lamine’s other wife is Shita, and there are 4 of his kids age 1-8 that are always around. I know he has other children, but I think they are with his other wife right now. Lamine’s parents are past away, but he lives in the same compound with his dad’s brother, Isa. Isa is about 60 years old, and his wife, Mariam, is maybe 45-50. Another one of Lamine’s brother’s wife’s, a widow, lives in the compound, too. One of Isa’s sons also lives in the compound with his wife and children. Lamine’s brothers all live in either Bamako or the neighboring countries of Burkina-Faso or Cote d’Ivoire.

Ramadan, the Muslims month of fasting, ended on Sunday. During Ramadan, Muslims do not eat or drink anything (or smoke) from sunrise to sunset. As you might imagine, people are not exactly themselves during this month. Some are slightly irritable, but most people basically just seem tired out constantly. So besides the “grande fete” we got to have on Sunday, I was glad to see the end of Ramadan just so I can get to know the people of Madoubougou as they really are. Everyone is eating normal and drinking their tea, now, so they’re in much better spirits. The “big party” was really just everyone having big meals, hanging out, playing games (some of the men really get into this board game that reminds me of “Sorry”) and drinking lots of tea. Kind of like Easter or something, only the kids go trick-or-treating instead of getting baskets of candy or hunting for eggs. The thing about the trick-or-treating, though, is that it’s completely acceptable (and basically expected in Madoubougou) to give small change out rather than candy. Also, instead of dressing up the kids just say a blessing or 2, and it goes on for 2 days. Being the moron that I am, I forgot to get any coins for the occasion (change is notoriously hard to get in Mali) and had absolutely nothing to give out. I managed to be hanging out at other peoples’ houses enough both days that it wasn’t a huge deal, but the little bit of time I did spend at home I felt like one of those mean old men who keep their lights off on Halloween. Oh, well… it’s not the first time I’ve seemed like an idiot here, and I’m sure it won’t be the last.